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Silver Saum Cichlid – Andinoacara stalsbergi


"True" Green Terror - Andinoacara stalsbergi

Is the Silver Saum Cichlid suitable for a community aquarium?

The Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi) should NOT be considered to be an excellent community fish. It is a big fish and is, like many Cichlids, very territorial. The Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi) is also known as the “True Green Terror” Cichlid. It is exceptionally territorial when spawning and, unless the breeding pair is alone, they are likely to do some real damage.

What is the history of Cichlids?

Cichlids are a very ancient and extensive classification of fishes dating back millions of years before, for example, dinosaurs. Cichlids probably originated around 550 million years ago (give or take a month or two 😀) and there are somewhere in the region of 2,000 to 3,000 different species, of which around 1,700 have been classified (at the time of writing).

Cichlids can make excellent community fish but you should take care because not all Cichlids are good community fish and may devastate an established aquarium, treating their tankmates as food, so before choosing a Cichlid, please ensure that you know whether or not your choice will be appropriate to your needs.

What are the key facts about Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi)?

CategoryKey Facts
Common name(s)Silver Saum Cichlid – also knows as:
True Green Terror Cichlid
Scientific nameAndinoacara stalsbergi
FamilyCichlidae
Originate fromRivers and other freshwater habitats in western Peru from Piura to Ica in South America
Care requiredEasy to care for and very beautiful
TemperamentRelatively placid but territorial fish
Colour & FormDeep-bodied fish with very elegant finnage
LifespanUp to 10 years
Adult sizeUp to 12 inches – Male significantly larger than female
DietOmnivorous – eats Daphnia, Bloodworm, Tubifex worms, flakes and pellet food in the aquarium.
Aquarium size60 inches in length or greater
Compatible withBest kept in a single-species aquarium
Avoid keeping withLarge and/or aggressive species in too small an aquarium or smaller species that it will eat. This is a dominant species.
BreedingEasy if you put the fish in the right environment.
Water temp68 – 75 Fahrenheit
Water pH6.5 to 8.0
Water hardness (dGH or dH)5 to 15 dGH

From where does the Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi) originate?

Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi) originates in rivers and other freshwater habitats in western Peru from Piura to Ica in South America. It has been introduced elsewhere but, as always, I advise against introducing non-native species into local waters, as to do so can destabilize that established, natural habitat. The Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi) should not be confused with the Green Terror – Andinoacara rivulatus, which is a quite distinct species.

The Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi) is usually found in nature in slow-to-moderate-flowing streams and on the margins of larger rivers.

What are the basic characteristics of the Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi)?

  • The lifespan of Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi) is around seven to ten years but this can vary enormously depending on tank conditions and general health.
  • Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi) prefers fairly soft, acidic water, often described as “blackwater” with plenty of dissolved tannins, with a pH of 6.5 to 8.0 and a temperature range between 68 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit and from 5 to 12 dGH. All of that said, captive-bred specimens have, over many generations, become accustomed to your local water conditions so these technical details are a guide and not a rule. That said, Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi) will thrive well in mature water and may suffer if water conditions are not maintained.
  • Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi) will grow up to around 12 inches in length (males) and females up to around nine inches. In young fish, it is difficult to distinguish between the sexes so if you are purchasing young fish then buy half-a-dozen and you should have a mix of the sexes. 
  • The adult male of the species tends to have a more bronze base color than the female, especially when defending his territory or breeding. The extended dorsal fin of the Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi) has an elongated upper tip at the rear. The extended, pointed dorsal and anal fins are usually found in males whereas those fins in the female are shorter and more rounded at the tips. The adult female will also have a visible ovipositor (egg duct) just in front of the anal fin if spawning.
  • Under the eyes, the iridescent blue marking extends to the bottom of the gill plates whereas, above the jawline, the head of the fish is a bronze color in the male and a dark, blue-grey color in the female, similar to natural slate.
  • The body of Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi), from beneath the leading edge of the dorsal fin to the end of the caudal peduncle, is the same color as the head and each scale is clearly delineated with iridescent blue centers and dark edges.
  • Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi) will generally dwell near the bottom of the water column and will enjoy a fine substrate, as it is something of a “sifter” when feeding in that it will take in a mouthful of the substrate and sift out any food, expelling the remaining substrate. The term for this is, “geophagous,” which translates (from its Greek origin) to “earth-eater”.
  • Being that the Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi) enjoys digging up the substrate, there is little point in aquascaping by planting in the substrate. Your time will be better-served attaching any sturdy plants to submerged, dense wood or to solid rocks and adding floating plants such as Java Moss and Cabomba.
  • Include smooth rocks or slate on the aquarium floor, as the female will lay her eggs on this type of surface.

What is the physical appearance of Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi)?

The Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi) has a relatively deep, body in profile and is also quite broad when viewed from above or from the front. The body of the adult male has a bronze color with iridescent blue highlights on the scales and on the lower jaw whilst the body of the adult female has a blue/black color with iridescent blue highlights on the scales and on the lower jaw. At breeding times, the coloring of the male may become much more vivid.

A few more characteristics may be described as follows:

  • Whilst normally quite indistinct, at spawning times, the male, has a large, virtually black spot just above the spine in the center of his body.
  • The scales have an iridescent silver-blue coloring along the body starting beneath the leading edge of the dorsal fin and going to the rear of the caudal peduncle.
  • The fins (with the exception of the pectoral fins, which are a greenish-yellow in the male and relatively clear (hyaline) in the female, have dark, charcoal-colored rays.
  • The upper edge of the dorsal fin is white in color.
  • The dorsal and anal fins are elongated in the male, in particular.
  • The ventral fins are elongated and extend as far back as the front of the anal fin.
  • The anal fins are similar in color to the dorsal fin (without the white outer edge) and, like the dorsal and anal fins, are somewhat elongated.
  • The caudal fin has an eye-catching white trailing edge (the color will broadly match that on the upper edge of the dorsal fin, but is more defined.

The Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi) is a medium-large-sized Cichlid. It has an extended dorsal fin. The fins of the male can tend to be longer than those of the female. It is advised not to include this species other species unless you have a very large aquarium and its tankmates are of similar size. Be aware that at breeding times, Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi) is extremely territorial (in any tank) so should be transferred to a breeding tank. In my opinion, it would be better to keep Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi) in a single-species aquarium because, unlike its natural habitat of a river, other species cannot get far enough away so may well be in danger.

What is the living environment for Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi)?

  • Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi) is another “star-of-the-show” species so a single-species tank is beneficial. 
  • As a dominant species, it is advised not to keep other species with the Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi). The general rule is only to keep other species that are too big to become meals but unless you are a specialist, I would advise against keeping this species with anything else.
  • The Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi) loves shade will appreciate floating leaves and pretty well any broadleaf will assist the condition of the tank, as not only do such leaves provide shade but also, as they decompose, they provide infusoria for any fry in the tank. This also helps adults to determine that breeding conditions are good because they will appreciate the fact that there is a ready source of food for newly-hatched fry.
  • Note that the Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi) will generally mate for life and they will make good parents for the brood that they are rearing – the female will tend to care for the brood whilst the male will protect the territory.
  • It is recommended that Silver Saum Cichlids are kept as a small shoal until two forms a breeding pair, after which, the remainder should be moved to a different tank. The male, in particular, is very territorial but setting up the tank so that sightlines are broken up will mitigate the risks of territorial behavior in general. 
  • When purchasing Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi) it is generally recommended to buy around six fish. It may be impossible to sex the fish when purchasing them as immature specimens but, in due course, they will find their own mate and are, from that point, both monogamous and biparental.
  • Having a clear, broad area of a fine substrate will protect the elegant finnage of your Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi).
  • Your tank should include rocks (and/or slate) with a smooth surface on which the female will lay her eggs. Since the eggs are adhesive, large, smooth, or, perhaps, some slate on the floor of the tank will be ideal for the laying of eggs. The female Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi) may even lay her eggs on the glass on the bottom of the aquarium.
  • Overall, the Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi) is the most attractive and most elegant addition to your aquarium.

What is the diet of Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi)?

Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi) is primarily omnivorous and has a preference for live food, feeding on a range of invertebrates in nature. In the aquarium a diet of live or frozen Artemia, Bloodworm and Daphnia are recommended and Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi)  will readily eat pelleted food and flake food. That said, they prefer to stay close to the bottom of the water column and sift through the substrate for their food. For this reason, a fine substrate is recommended. You could also make a “cake” of crushed vegetables and fruit in natural gelatin, as this is a reputed favorite of the Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi).

What are the sexual differences in Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi)?

It is reasonably easy to distinguish the sex of the adult Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi) because the adult male has a bronze “skin” color whilst that of the female is a slate blue and the adult male is significantly larger and especially at breeding times will develop the “nuchal” hump on his head. In nature, this hump of fatty tissue will disappear after mating but tends to become a permanent feature in the aquarium.

The rear of the male’s dorsal and anal fins is more extended than that of the female. The female has a visible ovipositor (egg duct) just in front of the anal fin at breeding times.

Sexual maturity will occur when the young adults are between three and five inches in length, so they still have plenty of growing to do.

What is a good aquarium size for Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi)?

It is generally advised that the minimum tank size for an adult pair of the Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi) should be one of at least 60 inches in length or more due to the size of the adults, particularly the male.

In a huge community tank, including some floating Java Moss and other floating plants, together with large rock formations will give other fish and any fry a safe haven from larger or more vigorous species and it certainly helps to break up the sightlines in the aquarium.

There is a predominance of so-called “Nano tanks” available but, being old-fashioned, I prefer my fishes to live in an environment which, at least, attempts to mimic nature, rather than living in what I would liken to a piscine prison cell. The tank should be well-planted but with clear areas where the fish can swim freely. The water should have a certain amount of movement, as Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi) enjoy a flow of water, being that it is a river fish.

Useful videos about the Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi)

General care video of Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi) 

Spawning video of Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi) 

Are you keeping tropical fish as a hobbyist or as a breeder?

This is a question too often ignored in my humble opinion. If you are a breeder (either commercially or as a hobbyist who gives away young fish to other hobbyists) then you will need the resources to move fish into breeding tanks in order to maximize the yield of fry that will grow up either for sale or to give them away.

If you are keeping fish for the joy of observing them in something resembling a natural habitat then you may feel that it is appropriate to allow nature to take its course and, as and when different species breed, then many of the eggs (and surviving fry) will be eaten either by their parents or by other fish in your aquarium. This is the natural order of things because this is what will happen in nature. The fittest may well survive to reach adulthood.

If the species is large and/or if the species has a large number of young during a spawning then you need to have a well-established plan as to how you intend to manage what could be several hundred young fish at every spawning. Even your local pet store may not have the capacity to take them off your hands, even if they wanted to. This aspect of keeping fish is the most often overlooked but should be high on the agenda of all responsible aquarists.

Ultimately, the choice is yours to make.

How do you breed the Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi)?

In total, the female Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi) could lay up to several hundred eggs during a single spawning but can lay as many as 300 to 400 eggs but can lay as many as 600 eggs. 

The eggs will hatch in around three to four days and the fry will become free-swimming after around eleven days.

It is generally true that the Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi) make really good parents and will not prey on their own young. In general, the male will protect the territory whilst the female will tend to care for the eggs and fry but these roles are interchangeable.

The female Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi) will generally lay her eggs in a line along a slate, rock, sometimes on a broad leaf or on the glass at the bottom of the aquarium. The male will then swim over that line of eggs and fertilize them. This process will then be repeated until the female has laid all of her eggs and the male has fertilized then and the result will be several rows of fertilized eggs.

Once the spawning is completed and until the fry become free-swimming, provided that the parents remain with the brood, they will protect the eggs with some zeal.

The Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi) takes responsibility for post-spawning care and may become extremely aggressive if it feels that the brood is threatened. For this reason, if possible, a breeding or single-species tank is recommended. In a community tank, other species will be driven out of the breeding pair’s territory by the male.

In a well-planted aquarium with floating Java Moss, the Cichlid will often spawn in the community tank and at least some of the fittest fry will survive to adulthood by hiding in the Java Moss.

In a breeding tank, it is always a good idea to include a few aquatic shrimp, as they will consume any unfertilized or dead eggs but won’t tend to predate on viable eggs.

How to set up a breeding tank for Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi)

You should prepare a tank of around sixty gallons in size with mature, soft, flowing water. The water should have a low level of light and broad-leaved plants together with some well-cleaned slate (or other smooth rock) on the floor of the tank upon which the female will lay her adhesive eggs. It is recommended that the substrate consists of a fine substrate (sand) without sharp edges. The Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi) may also lay eggs on broad leaves or in rows in the substrate or even on the glass bottom of the tank.

Cichlids prefer to spawn where the water is flowing so a decent pump is required to synthesize that flow.

Feed up your Cichlids on bloodworm, which will sink to the bottom and burrow into the substrate. Your Cichlid will love rooting out the bloodworm and it can help to trigger spawning.

You may also wish to introduce baby brine shrimp, mosquito larvae or tubifex worms as an inducement to reproduction and live food will be very much appreciated. This will also tend to divert the attention of the Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi) from preying on their own eggs and fry though cannibalism is certainly not characteristic of Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi).

Reduce the water movement by turning down the pump once the eggs are laid – only regular aeration is now required. Keep the lights off (or very low) and the tank dark (of fairly dark)  because eggs and fry can be particularly sensitive to the light.

The eggs will hatch typically in three to four days depending on tank temperature and conditions and the fry will become free-swimming after around eleven days. 

Keep the tank more-or-less unlit for the first week or so then gradually increase the lighting. Bear in mind that the eggs and fry of a fish as small as the Cichlid will be tiny indeed so you may need to use a magnifier “app” on your smartphone or a macro lens to see anything at all. A collection of eggs is generally easy to spot, as they look like a collection of tiny pearls.

The newly hatched fry will feed firstly on their yolk sac and remain static but, once free-swimming, can be fed infusoria and will also thrive on egg yolk during the first two to four weeks. 

Once the fry are free-swimming and their yolk sacs are depleted, then add baby brine shrimp and/or white worms. Once the fry are sufficient in size not to be treated as a snack then they can be introduced into the community tank. Before moving the adolescent fish into the community tank ensure that you have balanced the water temperatures to mitigate the risk of White Spot or other diseases being triggered.

The young fish should be left in the care of the parents for around six weeks before removing them and distributing them based on your pre-planned solution. Remember that you may have up to 400 young fish to distribute.

Unless you are breeding commercially, you may wish to consider moving the fry into the community tank sooner rather than later. It may seem harsh but the adult fish in the tank will deal with any fry that are unlikely to survive to adulthood in the wild and you are synthesizing, to the best of your ability, a wild environment. The fittest fry will probably survive whilst the rest will be dealt with by the community.

Is there a special diet for breeding Silver Saum Cichlid (Andinoacara stalsbergi)?

Adult Cichlids don’t need any particular inducement to breed. That said, it has been suggested that adding tubifex, bloodworm or mosquito larva may encourage them, presumably because the addition of a new food may “fool” the fish into thinking that it is breeding time. From my own experience, I would always recommend keeping all of your fish in the best possible condition at all times, as this is good for the wellbeing of your fish.

Mike Wheeler

I started keeping freshwater tropical fish in 1972 and it has been something of a passion ever since. In this website, my aim is to build up an everyman's guide to help the everyday aquarist get the best from this inspiring and entertaining hobby.

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